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BER:Building Energy Rating

Mon, 29 Mar 2010 15:24:57 +0100

A Building Energy Rating (BER) label is a standardised way to examine and represent the energy performance of a property. The building fabric and its heating supply are surveyed.

The results are entered in a computer programme that, with climate data, calculates standardised heating demand and performance (standardised because, as we all use energy very differently, standardised comfort conditions remove personal variations and give us consistant comparisons). The combined results of the Heating Demand and Supply produce the Energy Label, similar to the labels currently used on domestic appliances for example.

The Heating Demand is an evaluation of the property fabric, constructions details and insulation of walls, roof, floor and windows and how much air is allowed in to the property.

The Heating Supply is an evaluation of the heating equipment, its system and controls and the fuel used.

By examining both Heating Demand and Supply and availing of more energy efficient materials and technologies available in the marketplace, the overall Building Energy Rating can be improved considerably for both new builds and existing dwellings.

According to the Irish Auctioneers and Valuers Institute, Building Energy Ratings will have a positive impact on property prices and an “A” rated residential property

Attracts a premium price (at least 5%) over and above a similar residential property with a lower rating
Provides a more attractive proposition from a potential purchaser’s perspective
Financially benefits the owner, both in property value and energy costs.

An “A” rated home, therefore, is expected to be much more sought after by prospective purchasers

Flood repairs offer silver lining

Tue, 26 Jan 2010 21:30:56 +0100

Flood repairs offer silver lining

The flooding crisis may have a silver lining for the construction industry and economy in the longer term, according to a leading economist.

Prof Richard Tol of the Economic and Social Research Institute (ESRI) has said that while the flooding has caused widespread damage, there may be an unexpected fillip to the economy once the clean-up operation begins.

“Floods are bad but flood restoration can actually provide a stimulus to the economy,” said Dr Tol. He pointed out in an article in the Irish Times that he was not downplaying the impact the floods had on people who lost their homes and businesses, some of whom were not insured. However, he said that one of the unusual consequences of the restoration work, once it begins, is that it will provide an economic stimulus, generating local work and business in construction, engineering and in retail sales.

Some 1,500 people have been evacuated from homes due to flooding and the insurer Hibernian Aviva has estimated the damage to homes and businesses may exceed €250 million. “What the water has done is it has destroyed many things. But once insurance is paid, there will be a lot of money coming into the country. Most of the funds will come not from Irish insurance companies but will be called in from international reinsurers. So it will be mostly coming from abroad, which is a stimulus.”

Property market to stabilise by 2011

Tue, 26 Jan 2010 21:31:19 +0100

Housing market to stabilise by 2011

The housing market should stabilise in 2011, but no meaningful recovery is likely before 2014, according to economist Dr. John McCartney.

Based on his premise that natural cycles underpin all commercial and residential property markets, McCartney told an audience of prominent business leaders in Waterford how these past market cycles provide the clearest foresight into what is likely to happen in the Irish property market over the next decade. "Research on property markets across the world shows that they work in cycles. By definition, that means that Ireland will ultimately come out of this property led slump," he said. However, due to the severe economy recession, the recovery will be slow," he continued.

However, he said that Ireland's property market's recovery is not imminent: "As regards commercial property, a recovery is likely from around 2014, with the market building to its next peak in 2019," he explained.

Last year, McCartney broke new ground by publishing in the ESRI Quarterly Economic Commentary.

Kingspan calls for rainwater harvesting!

Tue, 26 Jan 2010 21:31:33 +0100

Rainwater harvesting ‘should be compulsory’

The recent water shortages could have been avoided if all new builds had rainwater harvesting as mandatory, claims Kingspan

Rainwater harvesting should be made compulsory for all new build projects, according to supplier Kingspan.

"It is incomprehensible that large parts of Ireland are suffering water shortages after the record levels of rainwater that have fallen in the last three years," said Charles Burns commercial director of Kingspan Water.
Kingspan added that there would not have been a water shortage in Ireland in the last few weeks if more homes had rainwater harvesting technology installed. "Homes would have been able to use the free rainwater for toilets which can use between 3-7 litres for just one flush. It would mean much less pressure on the mains water supply, and would cost home owners less in bills when water charges are introduced," he added.

"It is only when people suffer the loss of water at home that they begin to realise what a valuable commodity it is, and how we all take it for granted," added Burns.

Burns said making the change would be simple. "All the government would have to do is change the building regulations to include rainwater harvesting in all new build projects. Minister Gormley made massive strides in improving the energy efficiency of new homes and he can do the same for water efficiency."

"Suggestions by policy makers to solve the shortage by piping the river Shannon, or putting a whole new water system in place for Dublin are too costly and far fetched in the extreme. Whereas introducing regulations on rainwater harvesting would benefit the environment and the consumer and should happen without delay," he concluded

Check out www.kingspan.ie for more info

Blogs wanted

Tue, 26 Jan 2010 21:31:43 +0100

Blogs wanted

We at tradesmen blogs need articles to add to the website. If you would like to suggest an article then please do so by contacting us or by replying to this blog post.

Articles can have a couple of link in them to the content originator, or business details if it's about a company, product or service.

Please do keep us in mind when you read something interesting somewhere.

Thanks for your help.

Carbon monoxide alarms

Tue, 26 Jan 2010 21:32:02 +0100

Carbon Monoxide Alarms

Kidde Safety Europe offers approved home safety products which help to make sure that your family and home are as safe as possible from the risk of fire.

Included are a range of smoke and carbon monoxide alarms, fire extinguishers and fire blankets. Did you know?

Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning include headaches, tiredness, muscle pains, nausea and vomiting - all of which are easily mis-diagnosed as flu!

Q) What is carbon monoxide?
A) Carbon monoxide is a colourless, tasteless, odourless gas.

Q) How is it produced?
A) The gas is produced when any fossil burning fuel does not burn efficiently.
It can be caused by inadequately maintained or badly fitted domestic heating appliances such as wall heaters, fires and boilers - and may not be able to escape from the home if the chimney flue is blocked.

Q) Does the carbon monoxide unit detect natural gas if the cooker is just switched on but not ignited?
A) No - a 'standard' carbon monoxide alarm will only detect poisonous carbon monoxide and not natural household gas that may have leaked.

Q) I have inserted the batteries, but the alarm is just making a screeching noise, why is that?
A) Please check that the batteries have been inserted correctly - the top and bottom battery need to have the polarity to the right and the middle one should go to the left.

Q) How do the Carbon Monoxide alarm sensors work?
A) Carbon monoxide alarms use electrochemical sensor technology to sense the air every 15 - 20 seconds. Then, in accordance with BSI 50291 requirements, Kidde alarms meet the following response times;

At 30 ppm, the unit must not alarm before 120 minutes

At 50 ppm, the unit must alarm within 60 - 90 minutes

At 100 ppm, the unit must alarm with 10 - 40 minutes

At 300 ppm, the units must alarm within 3 minutes

CO alarms that meet different 'requirements' may meet slightly different response times.

Q) Where should carbon monoxide alarms be located?
A) Kidde recommend that carbon monoxide alarms should be placed 1.5 metres from the floor providing it is not in dead air space (which is 34cms from any walls, corners or alcoves). Alarms must be at least 2 metres away from any heating appliance to prevent nuisance alarms.

Q) How many carbon monoxide alarms should I have in the home?
A) Kidde recommend one alarm on each level of the home. However, if you are only purchasing one then it is best located near to sleeping areas as you need to be able to hear the alarm at night whilst you are sleeping and would not be otherwise aware of the effects of CO poisoning.

Q) The carbon monoxide alarm has started to chirp, does this mean that the unit has detected carbon monoxide gas?
A) When the unit detects carbon monoxide gas it will alarm at 85 decibels.

Q) Why has the carbon monoxide alarm started to chirp?
A) Carbon monoxide alarms chirp for various reasons - usually it is because the batteries need changing. When the battery starts to run down you will find that it normally chirps in the early hours of the morning when it is coldest. This occurs when the temperature drops as the voltage to the battery automatically drops and the carbon monoxide alarm goes into low battery mode whereby the unit will chirp. When the temperature rises the chirping should stop.

Bahco Ergo handsaw system

Tue, 26 Jan 2010 21:32:10 +0100

A new, revolutionary, professional approach to sawing!

Incorporating the most advanced and comfortable Bahco ERGO handle ever and a range of interchangeable Bahco Superior blades, this truly flexible system combines maximum versatility with superior sawing performance!

The best ERGO handle ever!

The asymmetrical handle design eliminates pressure points and stops the hand sliding on the handle
Thermoplastic Elastomer (TPE) for optimum friction and a warm feel
The angle and position of the handle in relation to the blade teeth reduces sawing forces and increases efficiency
Available for left or right-handed users
Two different handle sizes* provide maximum grip, comfort and safety
*Left-handed handle is available in one size only.

Comfort and stability

High quality aluminium body ensures rigidity as well as retaining and protecting the locking mechanism
Soft shapes and materials ensure user comfort
High quality blade locking system - ensures no play between handle and blade when assembled

Interchangeable blade system

High performance Bahco Superior blades
A selection of ten different blades to cover all common materials and applications
Simple storage, easy handling and straightforward replacement of worn blades

Patented locking

Easy access to lever through opening in handle end
Long lever for easy locking and release of the saw blade
Security spring locks the lever.

ReadyWrench by Black&Decker

Tue, 26 Jan 2010 21:32:18 +0100

A few weeks ago, the good folks over at Black&Decker sent me a ReadyWrench to review. I wanted to use the tool a few times before writing about it. This week I saw that they started promoting it as a christmas gift idea so I decided that it was time to write the review before the holidays are over!

Let’s get down to it. What is this thing? Basically it’s a handle with 4 box wrenches on each end. To select which size you want to use, just turn the boxes at the end of the tool. The packaging says there’s 16 different sizes, but in reality, it’s 8 sizes which are close-enough matches between SAW and metric: This means that your half-inch box is really a 13mm (0.51 in.) box. A notch every 45º prevents the box from spinning and jerking off the bolt while you’re using it. That mechanism is well done.

The tool feels good in the hand: it’s not too light and doesn’t feel flimsy, although I wouldn’t whack it with a mallet to get a stubborn bolt unstuck. The plastic grip is comfortable, but I feel they could have went with a higher quality material. Also, I didn’t see any markings that would indicate which grade steel alloy it’s made of. In my opinion, at 30$, it should be high quality chrome vanadium steel. Then again, it’s not designed to be a heavy-duty tool — which is fine since it isn’t pretending to be.

I’ve tried it around the car and I must say that it was frustrating at times: without ratcheting action and with 60º teeth, the tool needs a lot of space to work — space that wasn’t always available under the hood of my Volvo. For working on the car, nothing beats a good set of box wrenches.

Around the backyard and in the shed, the ReadyWrench felt more at home. As much as I love to use my extensive tool set when I work on the car, as much I hate taking it out just to tighten a few bolts in the backyard. That’s where the ReadyWrench really shines.

Sure, I have other tools that tighten bolts. But, I don’t leave those in the shed. Having the ReadyWrench handy when you need it is really practical. In fact, the Ready Wrench prompted me to assemble what I call a “satellite tool kit” that I leave in the shed. Nothing fancy, just a multi-bit screwdriver, some pliers, a utility knife and the ReadyWrench. That way, I don’t need to run to the house when I need to tighten a bolt.

So — where does this tool stand?

What they got right:

Handy all-in-one design
For noobs, less likely to strip a bolt than an adjustable spanner
A nice addition to any toolbox
Lifetime Warranty

What can be improved:

Somewhat ill suited for tight spots (a 30º bend would help)
Better quality plastic grip
Plastic Blister Packaging is annoying

The verdict:

The ReadyWrench is a good addition to any tool kit. For beginners, it’s easier to use than an adjustable spanner. If you’re a seasoned DIY person with a full toolkit, don’t dismiss it too quickly: you can always use it in a secondary toolbox that’s closer to the action!

Surviving the Freeze – Frozen Freezing and Burst Pipes in the Home

Tue, 26 Jan 2010 21:32:24 +0100

What are the risks of freezing pipes?

It’s a simple fact that when water freezes, it expands. Unfortunately the pipes used for your plumbing are not so flexible, resulting in burst pipes and water damage in your home. Any home with poor insulation is at risk (think many of the homes built in the last 7 years) and any space within the home where pipes are exposed to a cold air flow are vulnerable – think attic spaces, outside walls and cracked wall coverings. If in doubt, check your home out by following the investigative steps below.

How to identify freezing pipes

A frozen pipe does not leak, so the first indication is a disrupted water supply– with little or no water coming from your taps. A quick inspection of your piping may also reveal frost on the exterior of the pipe in question.

What to do if your pipes freeze

If you suspect frozen pipes, turn off the water supply to your home as soon as possible. You can do this by locating the main stop cock (stop valve) in your house, normally located under the kitchen sink.
Where possible also turn off the water supply from your water tank – normally located in your attic. Turn off the stop valve on it’s outlet pipe.
Finally, turn off all water heating systems and turn on your taps to drain the system - this will minimise water damage caused in the event of a burst pipe.
At this stage you should request a plumber to call out and check your plumbing system for further damage.

What to do if your pipes burst

Turn off the water supply to your house and water tank as above.
Where electrics are exposed to water, turn off your electricity supply at the mains.
If your house is insured, contact your insurance company at this point.
Get a plumber out as soon as possible.
Collect any water in buckets to limit the damage
Puncture the plaster in any bulging ceilings to relieve the pressure and limit damage

How to prevent frozen pipes

Insulate all exposed water pipes (both internal and external) with foam based or specialist pipe insulation. Exposed pipes include those in attics, external wall cavities and near damaged walls.
Ensure that the heating comes on for a time in unoccupied homes during cold weather spells.